Swimming Pool Help Center

*USA*		*Canada*

   Member NSPI
   National Spa and
   Pool Institute of
   Canada

1959 - 2010
51 Years in the Pool Industry

Member
Manitoba Better Business Bureau

Customer Comments
In-ground Pools On-Ground Pools (New)	Above Ground Pools Wood Above Ground/Onground Pools	The Clearance Page	Wet Deck Aquatic Access	Bullfrog Spas & Hot Tubs Swim Spa
Pool Pumps & Filters Cartridges Replacements	Above Ground Royalty Pool Now on Sale (Easy Installation)	Pool Cleaners Pool Devil Surface Pool Cleaner	Quartz Patio Heater Leaf Nets, Winter & Safety Covers	Spas and Hot Tubs Spa Accessories
Pool Heaters Pool Heat Pumps	Swimming Pool Lights Fiber Optic Lighting	Slides, Boards and Steps	Turn Your Pool Into a Swim Machine	Jandy AquaLink Goldline Controls
Pool Liners Pool Liner Guard & Wall Insulation	Above Ground Fencing Above Ground Steps	Accessories & Maintenance	Pool Game & Sun Beds "NEW" UV Sanitizing System	Solar Heating Pool Solar Covers
Liquid Solar Blanket In the Water Pool Bar	Pool Domes	Pool Alarms	Salt Water Chlorine Generator & Controls	Solar Cover Storage System Zeobrite Filter Media

Home

Product Search

Tracking

Checkout

Help and Information Center

Email Us

Why is my pump leaking?

Why is my pump not pumping water like it usually does?

Why is my pump making a screeching noise?

Why is my pump making a grinding noise?

Why won't my motor turn on?

My motor hums but why won't the pump start?

What if I have low filter pressure?

How do I locate an air leak?

I am replacing an old pump. Why was I recommended a lower HP?

Should there be air in the pump basket?

Why is my pump running too hot and cutting out?

Why does my new pump cut on/off every 5 - 10 seconds?

Why do I have bubbles coming into pool?

My pump is running, but there is no pressure?

Why did my electrical bill jump up a considerable amount since my pool was built?

Why can’t I get my pump to prime?

How do swimming pool pumps function?

What will cause the motor to not progress to its high speed mode, overheat and trip the breaker?


	A very common problem is the threaded fitting carrying water out of the pump shrinking and allowing water to drip, run and then spray. This can be replaced with a high temp.fitting to prevent its reoccurrence. Water may also leak from a worn out mechanical seal. This seal is the separation between the wet end and the dry end (motor) of the pump. This mechanical shaft seal should be replaced.


	Check your skimmer baskets for heavy debris. Make sure the pump basket is clean and properly positioned. Some types of pumps have a pump basket that lock into place to prevent the basket from floating and causing the pump to cavitate. (Starved for water). You may find the pump basket is cracked and allowing debris to clog the pump's impeller.


	Inside the pump’s motor are a front bearing and a rear bearing. Bearings can become damaged when the pump has run dry and overheated, or if the pump is put under high loads. One test is to remove the motor from the pump, and turn it on. If it still screeches (while not pumping anything) the bearings need to be replaced.


	This may be caused by cavitations. This sounds less like screeching and more like grinding. Starving the pump for water causes this condition. If possible, open more valves, or find the cause of the obstruction that is blocking water flow into the pump. It may be the impeller.

First check that you have power. Is the breaker on? Time clock on? All switches on? Use an electric meter to be sure that voltage is correct. Check that all electrical connections are tight and not corroded or shorted out by bugs or debris. Again, the use of a meter or test lamp will check this with certainty. If there is power going all the way to the motor, the motor may have become shorted across its windings.

The impeller may be clogged with debris. Turn off the power, and spin the impeller shaft. If it won't turn freely, remove the motor from the pump and clean the impeller. If it does spin, check the capacitor. The capacitor is the black cylinder on the back of the motor, although sometimes it is silver and mounted on top of the motor. Check the capacitor for white residue or oily discharge or for bulging. Sometimes even a fine looking capacitor can be bad. Replace with a new capacitor of the same rating. As well, check that the impeller is not hitting the impeller housing. Also, low voltage can be a cause of a humming but not starting the motor. New motors for in-ground pool pumps are wired for 220 volts, so if you hook it up to 110 volts, it will only hum, or cycle. Or perhaps one of the power leads is loose, or shorted. Check with a mulitmeter to verify the correct voltage, with a variance of 10% allowed.


	When your pressure is lower than normal, check to see if your pump basket is dirty. If the basket is clean, yet pressure and flow is still low or surging, you may have an air problem or the impeller may be clogged.

Make sure the strainer lid is on tight, with a clean, lubed o-ring. Also check that all plugs are tight. A good way to locate an air leak is to shut off the motor when it's under full pumping head pressure, and look for water to spray back out of the void where the air was entering. This void will always be before the impeller. After the impeller is what is called "the pressure side". Any leak or void here will leak water out. Any leak or void prior to the impeller (in front of the pump impeller) will draw air in when the pump is on. The pump will suck in air instead of water. So, your system needs to be airtight to run properly. When you find this void, patch with epoxy putty or silicone, or replace the part if needed.

If that didn't work, buy a drain king at your local pool store. This connects to a garden hose and puts the line under pressure. Putting this in the skimmer, you can turn on the hose and pressurize the line backwards (Also good for clearing clogged pipes). Remove the pump lid and use a plug at the pump entrance. This will allow pressure to build up in the line and squirt out at the leak. Many suction side leaks found in this manner are then repaired with pool putty, or a more permanent plumbing repair / pipe replacement can be made.


	When it comes to pool pumps, bigger is not always better. Like many things today, new technology has improved the pool pump. They offer better efficiency and design. When replacing an old fatigued pump, keep in mind that the new styles have increased pressure and water flow. This may result in the need to downsize on your horsepower at replacement time.

The pump is meant to operate air free. After some time, you may notice air in the basket, especially if you have a clear lid to observe such things. This can reduce filtering efficiency, allow air to build up in the filter, and sometimes prevent your pump from catching prime (being able to move water). The problem is usually located around the pump, above ground. Sometimes air in the pump basket can be caused by something as simple as the water level being too low in the pool. You might also want to check the skimmer weir. This is a plastic flap at the throat of the skimmer that keeps the debris in the skimmer when the pump is off. If the skimmer weir is stuck it can cause the skimmer to drain and take in air. Also check that the pump basket lid is on tight and the o-ring is lubricated.

This may be caused by insufficient power due to an undersized wire or long power wires. All wires should be according to code requirements. Your local power supply may be suffering a power drop. For example: during a heat wave when every possible cooling appliance has been turned on in your area, your pump may be starved of the power it requires to run cool. Restart your pump when the weather cools to confirm that the problem is really in the motor. Your pump has a thermal overload, which will shut the motor off when it gets too hot, and it will restart itself once it has cooled down.


	Your motor is probably wired to the wrong voltage. Most in-ground pumps can be connected to either 115 or 230v. Shut off the pump at once and have your electrician check the problem and correct it.

The strainer cover may be loose or the gasket is damaged; check and replace the cover or gasket if necessary. The pool water level may be too low allowing air to mix with water through the skimmer. You will need to raise the water level. The skimmer weir, sometimes called the flapper, may be stuck in the up position, allowing air to mix with water in the suction line. There can be a leak at any connection in the suction piping or a leak inside any suction side valve at the stem o-ring. Also, there may be a leak in the underground piping, caused by a loose joint, or termites/ants that will chew into some flexible piping.

Many pool owners use this term when in fact they really mean they have lots of pressure but their flow is very low. A dirty or clogged filter, a blocked return line, or a valve that is shut off or partially shut on the return piping causes this. The pump's impeller may be clogged with debris, check by first shutting off the pump, remove the basket to check the impeller by putting your finger into the suction hole found in the pump strainer housing. If the seal is broken you need to replace it. For seal change instructions on Hayward pumps, refer to your Owner's Guide that is supplied with your pump, or contact your local pool dealer.


	Swimming pool pumps do require energy, the bigger the pump the more energy consumed. Also 24-hour running costs will add up. Some filtration systems may require 24-hours to clean your pool, but your pool should stay clean with 8 - 12 hours of filtering.

You may have a suction leak because there is not enough water in the strainer housing. You can have a leak at any joint especially at the first fitting that is screwed into the strainer housing. The strainer cover may be loose or an o-ring under the strainer housing cover may be worn. You could have clogged suction piping, which is caused by items that get sucked through the skimmer into the piping, usually lodging at any turn in the piping. Sometimes when the pump starts and a small stone or debris bypasses the pump basket it will break the impeller. The pump may be located above the pool water level or may be too far from the pool, requiring longer periods to prime. The ideal situation is to locate the pump at or just slightly above water level, 8 feet maximum, and as close to the pool as possible, approximately 10 - 20 feet maximum.

Most pumps are self-priming centrifugal pumps. These pumps must have a vacuum chamber, commonly known as a pump housing. The pump housing must be filled with water in order for any pump to create a vacuum, resulting in your pump pulling the water out of your pool or spa. The pump housing will remain full of water while the pump is on, and will remain full or partially full of water when the pump is shut off.

When you turn on the pump the motor will begin to rotate on high speed, even if you have a dual speed pump. The motor drives the pump impeller, located inside the pumps center portion at the opposite end, away from the electrical switch portion of the motor. While the motor is rotating, the tips of the impeller are sealed hydraulically inside of the pump diffuser, allowing self-priming to occur.

Self-priming can only happen provided the pump has a diffuser. Some pumps have a separate diffuser, others have the diffuser molded into the pump's cover. (Refer to your Owner's Manual for your pump). The diffuser helps to eliminate any air coming into the pump housing, suction piping, or hoses on above ground pools. As all the air is removed from the system, you will notice the bubbles returning to the pool through the return fittings. The impeller acts to convert water velocity into water pressure, which is registered on your filter pressure gauge. The actual GPM varies with the type of pump and the horsepower. Check your Owner's Manual for more information.

Self-priming pumps are very dependable and simple in design. They require a sufficient supply of water from the pool or spa, and no air in the suction lines. Air could come from a loose strainer cover, a leak in any valve, a pinhole in any suction line or any crack or loose connections in the underground piping. Your pump should be kept free of dirt and also located where it can be protected from flooding during heavy rainfall. If your pump motor becomes flooded you will probably have to replace it.


	Check the start winding switch. It looks like an A Frame at the back of the motor. At the bottom of the "A" is a screw that calibrates the distance of the centrifugal switch to the shaft. If the gap is too large, then the unit will not start and would eventually trip the breaker.

Prices subject to change without notice

Bay Power Seller

Yahoo Stores